Introducing the WiseWood Veneer Cabinet Refacing Kits

We would like to end our long absence from this blog with an introduction to a whole new product line from WiseWood Veneer. We now offer cabinet refacing kits. Perfect for professionals and do it yourselfers. We have taken care to include everything that you would need to reface kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, or other types of furniture. Unless the remodel project calls for a change in size or a reconfiguration of the cabinet layout, the cabinets are (in most cases) just fine and do not need replacing. A change in appearance is what most people are after and this is where a cabinet refacing kit comes in handy.


The kits come in 3 different sizes and are an economical way to give your cabinets a face lift and a new look. Re-facing is a lower cost alternative to a complete tear out and reinstallation of new cabinets. Also it can be done in a fraction of the time at fraction of the cost. Available in the most popular species such as cherry, maple, mahogany and walnut, the kits come with veneer and edgebanding of your choice, a veneer scraper, a utility knife, a tack cloth, sandpaper and a sanding block. Detailed and comprehensive step by step instructions are also included.


Each veneer sheet is backed with 3M™ pressure sensitive adhesive which simplifies the application process. The edgebanding is pre glued with a hot melt adhesive which is easily applied with a household iron. Both, the veneer and edgebanding will accept stains and finishes so you can customize and match colors to give your cabinets the exact look you want. With 3 different sized kits you can get the appropriate kit for the size of your project. However, if you run short on veneer or edgebanding you can always buy 2’ x 8’ PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) backed veneer sheets individually and edge banding in small 50’ rolls separately.


Below is an excerpt of the cabinet refacing instructions but you can also download them in a PDF file. We would love to hear from you if you happen to have any questions or comments whether by phone [(586) 825 2387] or by email [info@wisewoodveneer.com]. We are always here to help if you happen to run into trouble.


Cabinet Refacing Instructions

For Face Frame Cabinets

For the purpose of describing only the cabinet refacing process we have left out any reference to replacement of doors and drawer fronts. Although this is also a major part of any refacing project the options are numerous and can be better dealt with by those companies that sell replacement doors and fronts.


Prepare Cabinets Boxes For Refacing (excerpt)

• Remove doors and hinges. If planning to re-use any hardware keep hinges and screws together in a safe place.

• Remove any trim molding by using a stiff putty knife or small tack puller under the edge of the molding and gently pry loose.

• Remove complete drawer boxes and set aside in a safe area.

• Now you’re down to cabinet boxes only. Inspect frames for any loose or peeling surfaces and repair these as well as any deep dents or scratches. These can be filled with wood putty or even better, auto body filler (Bondo) and sanded smooth.

• Lightly hand sand all surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper and a sanding block. You just want to “scuff” the surface, not completely remove the finish down to bare wood. Don’t use a power sander for this purpose.

• Wipe down all surfaces with a mild detergent and water solution or a mild solvent like denatured alcohol. Use a damp cloth only so as not to soak or saturate the wood and allow ample drying time. After surfaces are completely dry wipe with a tack cloth to remove any remaining dust or particles.


Veneering End Panels

• Your kit comes with 2 different types of veneer, sheet veneer with a PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) backing and rolled edge banding with a hot melt adhesive backing.

• You will start veneering cabinets by first applying PSA veneer to any exposed end panels. The wood edge banding will be used on the inside edges of the face frames around door and drawer openings.

• For the end panels take careful measurements for height and width. Cut the veneer width to the exact size and cut the height about an inch oversized using a good square and straight edge. Usually the face frames on cabinets extend an 1/8” or so beyond the cabinet end panel so you’ll be fitting this veneer between the backside of the face frame and the wall. By leaving the tall dimension of the veneer extra long you’ll have some free play when trying to align and place this end piece. After the veneer has been cut to fit this panel you will want to dry fit it before removing the release paper and exposing the PSA glue surface. The face frame overlap gives you a good edge to register the veneer against. When you’re satisfied with the fit you are ready to move on to the next step and apply the veneer.

• Peel away a few inches of release paper on the front edge to expose the adhesive. Register the veneer to the top or bottom of the end panel and butt up tight to back of the face frame. With the veneer placed where you want it, apply light pressure by hand to the surface along the leading edge where you’ve exposed the glue surface to effectively anchor the piece and prevent movement. Now you can reach behind with one hand to pull back the release paper while smoothing the veneer surface with the other hand as you go. With the veneer firmly affixed, smooth with the veneer scraper while applying downward pressure, moving in the same direction as the grain.

• Inspect the surface for any bubbles or loose edges. If any of these conditions exist go back over these areas with the veneer scraper.

• Repeat this process on any exposed cabinet ends. Instructions continued here.


PDF version of these instructions
WiseWood Veneer

How To Use Iron On Edgebanding

Wood edgebanding is a great way to put the final touches on your veneer project. It is easy to use, covers the edges of your substrate and gives your project uniformity and the appearance of solid material. It is available in virtually every wood species and almost any size. Whether your project is made with exotic or domestic veneer species we can offer you a Pre Glued or Iron On edgebanding to match. Edgebanding can also offer other aesthetic and creative opportunities for your furniture or kitchen designs that might not be practical with solid wood material. Some designers like to use contrasting color and/ or wood species edgebanding on the edges of doors and drawers to create bold and dramatic lines in their designs.

Iron On edgebanding is very simple to use whether you have an edgebander for production runs or you are just using a household iron to apply it. Below you will find our comprehensive instruction for using Pre Glued edgebanding. And through the month of April we are offering a 10% discount on all our in stock Pre Glued and Fleeceback edgebanding.



Iron on Edge Banding Application

Tools and Supplies

Working with iron on edge banding isn’t hard and doesn’t require any specialized tools or skills. Most of the tools you will need can be found in almost any home. You will want a standard household iron, an edge trimmer or standard utility knife or razor knife. We suggest you dedicate an iron for this purpose only as you may get some glue “squeeze out” when applying the edgeband. A small travel size iron offers better control than a standard iron.

Getting Started

Whether the edges to be covered are MDF, plywood or particle board, be sure that any deep saw marks are smoothed and any voids filled. Your iron should be set on a medium heat setting. A high setting is not necessary because the hot melt adhesive on the edge banding has a low melting point. The possibility of scorching the surface of the edge banding is also significantly reduced at this lower setting. Cut your edge banding about ½” longer than the edge to be banded. Also note that rolled edge banding has finger joints, or splice joints, typically every 4’-6’. A little pre-planning will help you to work around these joints if they are too noticeable or happen to be in a high visibility area. Starting at one end, position the edgeband with one hand and apply heat and downward pressure with the iron. We recommend doing 4” to 6” first and allow it to cool which will take approximately a minute. Now that the adhesive has cooled you have effectively “anchored” the strip which will make it easier to apply the remainder of the strip. Now you can move the iron steadily along the length of the edge while applying downward pressure with the iron. Normally you will exert enough pressure with the iron but you should check to make sure all the surface area is firmly sealed down. If you discover loose spots or edges that may want to curl up then you can re-heat the area and immediately apply pressure with a wood block, veneer scraper or flat edge tool to ensure a proper bond. Always apply the edgeband on the most visible surfaces last. By applying the most visible surfaces last you will ensure that any adjoining edges that butt up to this edge will be covered or over-lapped and therefore will be less visible.

Trimming the Edge Banding

Edge banding can be trimmed with a sharp utility or razor knife, a sharp wood chisel or a commercially available flush trimming tool. Good results can be achieved with any of these methods. To trim the excess length from a strip of wood edge banding simply cut with a utility knife or razor knife back to the panel end. Cutting across the wood grain like this is best accomplished using 2 or 3 scoring cuts instead of cutting through with one heavy stroke. This will help avoid any grain tear out, especially with coarse grained woods like red oak, hickory, white ash and some others. For trimming the excess from the edges use a sharp knife edge or sharp chisel held at a slight angle, not perpendicular, to avoid gouging or scarring the adjoining surface. For best control use short strokes with your knife or chisel blade. Don’t be concerned if you leave a little excess as this will be taken care of in the final step. If you are using a flush trimming tool press the edge of the tool firmly against the face of your panel and slide it along the edge to trim the excess edge banding. Working with the grain direction instead of against the grain will produce a cleaner cut with minimal grain tear out.

Finishing Up

To give your project that finishing touch use a sanding block with 120 grit abrasive. Sand any excess edge banding with this block skewed at an angle to produce a slight beveled edge. Run your fingers along this edge to check for any sharp edges or loose grain that could snag and tear out. Allow 24 hours before staining or finishing.

PDF version of these instructions
WiseWood Veneer

Wide Edgebanding at WiseWood Veneer

If you are looking for 1 1/2" or 2" wide wood veneer edgebanding, WiseWood Veneer has majority of the most common species in stock such as birch, cherry, mahogany, maple, white and red oak, and walnut. Other species may be available upon request. We are expanding our edgebanding inventory regularly, please call if you do not see something you need on our website. 855.883.6337 (855.8VENEER)

Our 1 1/2" edgebanding is made from high quality wood veneer and is available in 250' pre glued rolls or 500' no glue (fleece back) rolls. Our 2" wide edgebanding comes in 250' pre glued rolls. The hot melt adhesive on our pre glued wood veneer, wide edgeband rolls makes application a cinch with a household iron. You can find a full set of instructions here.